If you thought watches were just for checking the time between meetings, think again.
The humble wristwatch is playing a new role: portable portfolio, passport to private clubs, and an accessory that can out-shine a skyscraper selfie. Dubai, a city where appetite for luxury is practically a local sport, is the ultimate place to sharpen your horological instincts.
Whether you’re buying to wear or buying to watch your capital compound (in this economy we’ve gotta watch our dirhams), here’s our pick of timepieces that matter this year, with the kind of cheeky Insider notes you’ll appreciate.
Why watches? Why now (and why Dubai)?
High-end mechanical watches have become surprisingly robust alternative assets. With headline-grabbing sales, like the record Patek Philippe Nautilus that fetched millions at auction, have pushed collector demand and prices upward, underscoring how rarity and provenance can drive value.
Dubai’s watch scene isn’t shy about joining the party. Dubai Watch Week has grown into a global magnet for collectors and brands alike, expanding in size and ambition and solidifying the city as a Middle East horology hub, the place to see novelties, network with dealers, and spot trends before they hit the secondary market.
Now, the shortlist: smart, storied pieces that are perennial favourites with collectors and often, if you pick the right reference, appreciators of value.
Read on for the Insider scoop on classy timepieces…
1. Patek Philippe Nautilus
The Nautilus is the crown jewel of modern collectible watches. Scarcity and legend combined, a discontinued 5711 steel Nautilus in good condition can command multiples of retail, and unique auction pieces continue to smash records. If you can land a clean Nautilus at retail, you’re already sitting on something that most collectors will covet.
Why buy: Iconic design + acute scarcity = liquidity.
Wear it with: Boardroom blazer or a white tee.
Dubai tip: See novelties at Dubai Watch Week and talk to Seddiqi & Sons; relationships matter here.
Pricing: Expect to pay around $90,000-$130,000 USD.
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Royal Oak’s Genta-designed silhouette is the industrial-chic grail. Anniversary pieces and classic “Jumbo” refs remain hot on the secondary market, with many examples showing steady appreciation as collectors chase the star AND the story.
Why buy: Design immortality + brand momentum.
Wear it with: A slightly rumpled linen suit.
Investor note: Limited production runs and discontinuations have historically buoyed prices.
Pricing: $31,500-$44,000 USD.
3. Rolex
Rolex is the civet of blue-chip watches: universally loved, broadly liquid. The stainless sports references remain go-to staples for investors who want liquidity and recognisability. While not every Rolex skyrockets, the right reference, in the right condition with papers, will always have a buyer.
Why buy: Liquidity and recognisability.
Wear it with: Anything. It’s Rolex – it works and you don’t need much to look dapper.
Pricing: A decent vintage version starts at around $6,000 USD.
4. Richard Mille
If you like your watch loud, complicated and engineered like a race car, Richard Mille is the brand of the moment. The models are produced in ultra-small numbers, with celebrity heat and a cult collector base that keeps resale prices spicy. Models like the RM 011, RM 035, and RM 055 have all shown substantial price appreciation over the past decade.
Why buy: Exclusivity and modern desirability.
Wear it with: A VIP table reservation and zero subtlety.
Pricing: $150,000-$300,000 with rarer models selling for up to $1 million USD.
5. F.P. Journe & Independent Watchmakers
For the connoisseur who prizes craftsmanship over logo, independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe have proved they aren’t just creative, they’re collectible. Limited production and technical innovation make these pieces future heirlooms and attractive niche investments.
Why buy: Rarity + artisanal cachet.
Wear it with: Quiet confidence; these watches spark conversations among the initiated.
Pricing: $26,000 to a whopping $900,000 USD.
6. Grand Seiko & Neo-Classic Revival Pieces
Don’t sleep on Grand Seiko. Craftsmanship, finishing, and a growing collector base have turned certain Grand Seiko references into smart mid-term plays, especially for buyers who want incredible finishing without the headline markup of Swiss blue-chips.
Why buy: Craftsmanship with a value angle.
Wear it with: A crisp Prada suit.
Pricing: $1,700-$9,900 USD.
Five insider rules for Dubai buyers
- Paper beats passion: full sets (box + papers + service history) materially impact resale.
- Condition is king: serviceable scratches are ok; heavy polishing can kill the value.
- Buy the story: limited editions, provenance and boutique exclusives often outperform.
- Use Dubai Watch Week: it’s the calendar event to meet brands, compare pieces and gauge market sentiment.
- Vet your seller: use authorised retailers or reputable secondary dealers; in a market as hot as Dubai’s, provenance saves tears.
A final tick of caution
Luxury watches can appreciate, but they’re not a guaranteed return vehicle. Think of them as “passion investments,” beautiful, tactile, and often profitable when you know what you’re doing. Diversify, research, and if in doubt, talk to the specialists at Dubai Watch Week or local authorised dealers before you swipe your card.
